groninger museum

 

Back to Groningen, it took a little longer than expected...

 

day off

amsterdamFM

 

we slept in. it felt good. then off to Amsterdam...

 

den haag

 

The distances we had to travel this week felt very short, but I guess it is our North American perspective; when we told people in Nijmegen that we had to go to The Hague the next day, they said ‘oh that is far’, but if it is under 3 hours of travel time, it feels short to us!!...

 

nijmegen

 

After a nice breakfast with the flatmates, we walked a fast walk to the nearby train station. we rolled through the fields of Holland and arrived at Nijmegen...

 

groningen x1

 

smooth train rides north from cologne to utrecht, and then almost to groningen, but then an accident on the tracks forced us out at assen and onto a greyhound bus for half an hour.Laurens from wishfulmusic met us at the station and walked us to the place where he and Wouter had organized a house concert...

 

day off - cologne

 

and so, another early train!! 6am rise, and marlies is kind enough, again, to drive us to the train station. all this for a day off, but Sunday train travel in germany is busy and all the trains in the late morning and afternoon were sold out.

 

back to kiel

 

the next concert was at Marlies' house, and we were put in contact with her by Robin Aigner, who had toured a similar circuit last july. (thank you robin!)

 

sweden!!

 

 

we had an early train to catch (again), since it was a 6 hour train trip to stockholm. as we waddled into copenhagen traffic hour with our packs, we were amazed at all the bikes. and all these young people! hundreds of healthy young people riding to work in the early morning light. there was no crowd on the metro because everyone was on their bikes...
back on the train, the internet that was advertised worked for the first time of any trains so far (only sweden and holland have working internet on their trains, the other countries just pretend to). so we took turns being awed and calmed by the lakes and forests of sweden, while working away replying to old emails and updating our websites.
we walked through old stockholm and had a beer next to the royal palace, weaving through tiny streets and charming buildings, then over the bridge with a vista of the city's harbour.
we walked a fair way south through hipster neighbourhoods, and then met our host Lara at little wine bar in the sunshine.
although we had just met, we quickly realized we had friends in common from vancouver; small world!! and we went back to her place and got ready for the concert.  Around 30 people or more crammed into her cozy living room, and we played two set for this fun and smiling crowd, we had a great time!! we told everyone we wanted to come back to stockholm and spend more time there...
in the morning, up at 7 for an early train (sound familiar?), first we went on a special mission. aliza is half scandinavian and had wanted to record some traditional swedish songs for her grandparents back home in maine. so lara kindly picked and then guided us to the best spot in the city for this, up on some rock bluffs overlooking stockholm. thank you lara!! and then she filmed us doing three songs :)
off to the train, we found the 6 hour ride back to copenhagen too short - we had lots of work to do. aliza worked on vlogs and I worked on tour details.
after a short stop we got on a crowded commuter train to flensburg in germany; we chose to go there for a night off to save some money.
we had a great meal on the town and slept in a quirky little hostel.

we had an early train to catch (again), since it was a 6 hour train trip to stockholm...

 

the vessel is in a vessel

 

 

on the high speed ICE train to Copenhagen, a 5 hour ride, we had a cool surprise. the train had been following the shore for awhile, kind of doing a milk-run route instead of high speed. turns out we were heading to a port; they made an announcement "you must leave the train when it is on the boat." Aliza and I gave each other a look 'what boat?!!
Turns out the train actually gets on a ferry. Yes, the train gets on a boat. How cool is that?! and what a surprise. we filmed the whole loading, repeating silly lines like 'the boat has swallowed the train,' and 'the vessel is in the vessel.' 
So we got out and walked out around the cruiseship-style ferry that crosses a small section of the baltic sea between germany and denmark.
it was drizzling up on deck, so we found a cozy corner with a window to pass the short ride.
on Scandinavian soil, we rolled through old farmers' fields and sea-side villages.
arriving in copenhagen!! we switched some euros for danish kroner, around seven times the difference, so while we waited for the rain to arrive, we bought Carlsberg beer for 60 kr...
the concert we played that night was another one organized through couchsurfing.com, we were invited by carina.
her place was just the right distance and in just the right direction that we were able to stroll through some old parts of the city and do some sightseeing. we didn't go see the little mermaid. but we saw the king's palace from a distance. we stopped for some good food in a big square.
the concert was a little quiet, only a small number of people there, but we played for them as if they were a crowd of a hundred, and i think they liked it. it was just like playing for some very attentive friends.

on the high speed ICE train to Copenhagen, a 5 hour ride, we had a cool surprise...

 

northward bound

 

northward bound... we had two shows in Scandanavia, and one day off to get from Belgium to as-close-as-possible-to-Copenhagen...

 

early morning drive and back to the TGV

 

we had to wake up at 5am and get on the road. the misty dark drive through those old towns was magical. we had to return the rental car and get our pass stamped for the month. back on the TGV, racing at 380 km/h through France..

 

Blaison-Gohier

 

we got back on the road, had a long drive back to angers and then to a small town called Blaison-Gohier along the Loire river valley.

I really enjoyed driving all day, in the sun, blasting classical music, and racing through ancient countrysides of Brittany...

 

turquoise waters..

 

we had heard about the Presqu’il de Crozon from a few people. it is a big peninsula with lots of national forest and trails and cliffs and beaches.

we were unprepared for how beautiful it was...

 

Plougastel and the Pointe de Bindy

 

Our day off, we wanted to go swimming in the ocean. after getting slightly lost on our way to Patrick’s house in the countryside outside Brest...

 

Kangoo and Quiberon

 

we bought eurail passes for the month, the unlimited global pass. but we had 33 days of travel, so we rented a car for these first few days before using our month pass..

 

Off we go!!

 

spent the day packing, doing all those last minute things that for some reason never get done until those final moments...

my parents drove us to airport. we arrived three hours before the flight, good thing too because there was a line an hour long stretching between two sections of the airport!! check out vlog 1 for footage of the line and our first few days in Europe!

 

Vienna - ancient and modern tales

 

The torrential downpour that we had experienced the day before had flooded some tracks and knocked down some power lines in the western, mountainous part of the country, which meant our train was an hour and a half late.

 

Salzburg - mozart's footsteps and thunderstorms

 

We were quite excited to go to Salzburg, the birthplace of Mozart, and a place known for its great music. But we didn't know where we were staying, so we knew we had a little extra time to arrive, and decided to take a little detour. We wanted to see the Alps one last time on this trip, so we took the train south to Innsbruck on a beautiful blue sky morning, saw rocky peaks, lush valleys, and were amazed to see towns that seemed to be perched on the top of mountains, and that people had gardens where normally only the mountain goats can go.

 

Munich and the first day of summer

 

My oldest friend in the world is Martin. We have been friends for something like 23 years now. We met in elementary school and my first memories of him are biking to school, big adventures going across the the local bridge (called the hump) and discovering new streets and parks on the way to class.

 

Hannover - Back to Germany, and more tales of trains

 

A few months ago, before we knew anything about the European rail system, we knew we had a tight schedule on some days and decided to reserve some tickets in advance. For some reason we got it into our heads that it made sense to go to Amsterdam first and then take an express train to Hannover, but really what could have been a three hour ride became about seven hours.

 

Wishful living rooms

 

The morning leaving Amsterdam, we were greeted by strong ocean winds and torrential downpours, knocking people off bikes, and shaking the tram as we drove cross town.

 

Amsterdam – one and two half shows, dinner and a movie.

 

We had to play on Amsterdam FM at 3pm, arrive at 2. So we had to wake up early and catch the 8:30 train to Antwerp. We were supposed to have an hour wait between connections there, but luckily the earlier train that was supposed to depart two minutes before we arrived was late, so we ran down the escalators and caught it, and so had no wait. Very lucky!

 

Kortrijk – Tizio and good tunes! - Tour day 30

 

We had heard from our friend Tizio, aka Bob Corn, that he would be voyaging north from Italy on another tour. It happened that he had a show booked in Kortrijk on wednesday the 15th, and we happened to have this day off, and also had planned to come back to the town to visit Nathalie and Tjalle, and to pick up the rest of our cd's that we had sent ahead. We had asked Tizio the week before if we could open for him, and Brecht, the owner of the De Dingen Cafe, said yes. It worked out perfectly.

 

a very hip living room

 

We have this area in Montreal called the mile-end. It is a great part of town and is full of artists and interesting people. It is in the plateau, which is a hip place to live, and the mile-end is the hip part of the plateau.

When we just about to meet Sam in Brussels, Aliza said 'what does he look like?' and I said 'like he is from the mile-end.'

 

In Bruges

 

We had heard the locals in Gent call Bruges an “outdoor museum,” because it is a well preserved medieval town. I had been there once before on my last trip to Europe, but Aliza hadn't been yet, so we decided to go there for our one day off this week – we were 3 shows into 9 shows in 10 days...

 

Back to Belgium, Gent – more friendly people and friendly beer...

 

Dirk had recommended us to a few of his friends, saying that we were looking for more house shows. We got two more shows from his connections: the concert this day in Gent with Joost, and Tuesday's concert with Sam in Louvain near Brussels.

 

from the stoop to the Dome - 3000 kilometres

 

So as we mentioned before, Carly and her boyfriend Ben had set up this show just 4 days ago. Pretty awesome. She met us at the train station, and we were about to get on the S-bahn cross town, when I mentioned that Aliza had yet to see the Dome. Carly agreed that we should step out and see this incredible piece of architecture. It is hard to describe the gnarly awesomeness that is Koln Dome. It is a gothic cathedral with flying buttresses, the grey stones stained black from the weather. It almost looks like a giant gargoyle, it is spooky and incredible at the same instant. The detail in the stonework is meticulous.

 

Hamburg – finding the Mobile Blues

 

Booking a tour in Europe when no one has heard of you before is almost as hard as hitchhiking across the Galaxy (or Canada). But somehow we managed to do it (book the tour that is – and I hitchhiked across Canada, hopefully the Galaxy soon).

 

Berlin is the best!

Prinz Willy and the Priceless Audience

 

It was nice to be in a hotel for two nights, because we actually got to sleep in the day of the show and didn't have to wake up early and check out.

 

gray skies and crowded trains

 

We've been so lucky with traveling, we had to have one token annoying train day. Here's our one grumpy tale, apologies (it's not too bad, really).

 

Leiden; an afternoon in Oz, and giant potatoes...

 

We woke up early-ish to catch our train. Dirk had prepared us a continental breakfast, which we enjoyed before he and Jossip walked us to the bus stop, where we spoke about Canada's strange names for its one and two dollar coins until the bus came (loonie? Twonie?..)

 

Gent; living rooms and supernovas

 

The Tipi had offered us an entire room in a local hostel all to ourselves- we only took two of the seven twin mattresses, and slept in a little loft area tucked away above the room, accessed only by a steep little ladder.

 

Liege, and the mysterious boat...

 

After a few morning errands, we had coffee with Tjalle and then got on the train to Liege.

 

Belgium – friendly people and friendly beer - tour day 16

 

When I was last in Europe in 2005 I had the remarkable experience of couch-surfing. This age old tradition had met the internet and metamorphed into something new and unexpected. The website couchsurfing.com had started connecting travelers with locals around the world who were willing to host them, on a couch/bed/carpet. I joined in 2005 and there were sixteen thousand members, I thought that was a lot. Now there are over two million. I was able to voyage around Europe and stay with really really nice and generous people; people that were open to hosting a complete stranger but that they greeted and treated as new friend.

One of the couples I stayed with was Nathalie and Tjalle from Kortrijk, Belgium. They hosted me for a few days, and even booked a show for me. They showed me around town and introduced to real quality Belgian beers.

 

Northward Ho!!

 

so the first day of June greeted us with rain. We were leaving italy, and we joked that italy was crying because we were leaving ;) ok, we are silly. We said a big goodbye and thank you to Lorenzo for all his generosity and kindness, and we boarded the train, northward and beyond!

 

Two days in paradise

 

Lorenzo had offered for us to stay at the castle again, and since we hadn't even been there for 24 hours the previous time, we had to say yes!

 

Musica Nelle Valli

 

Most Italians have never heard of San Martino Spino, let alone know where it is. But this tiny town is the home of the wonderful and talented Tizio, aka Bob Corn. This kind and generous man helped us book some of our Italian shows and invited us to play the the festival he organizes, Musica Nelle Valli....

 

Verona

 

The next morning we had to wake up at 7 AM after a show night. Gianni had to go work. We were slightly exhausted, and had to find inspiration to carry our heavy, hot backpacks to catch the train and make our way to Verona. But it was very worth it...

 

Vignola

 

While touring, already in the first ten days, we have been to so many different places. It's so interesting just hopping on the train, and stepping off into a completely different world.

 

Florence

 

Florence

 

Sometimes there is an interesting synchronicity to trips. Aliza had been reading Irving Stone's 'The Agony and the Ecstasy,' a biography of Michelangelo in the form of a story. On the train from Rome to Florence, where we were going for our day off, she got to the part of the story where Michelangelo carves David. So, of course, we had to go see the real David...

 

Rome - day 7

 

we got to see an amazing thundershower in rome. we had just arrived at Roma Termini, the train station, and had walked across the street to decipher our tourist map of the town and get some coffee (but we got a beer and some pasta instead).

 

bologna and modo -tour day 6

 

we woke as early as we could... 10am... and drove down to the riveside, taking badoo the dog with us. the river is mostly riverbed; a small stream that moves around a large old riverbed of limestone and marble. the cliffs up above us show the the ripples and the layers that compose the appennines. the sun is shining so bright and we wish we had time to go for a swim at the the waterfall that is a little ways further up the valley. but we have to pack and leave castel corneglio, make our way to vianino for lunch and coffee, and then drive into parma. the mountains fade into prairies like waves on a sandy beach, it is a slow but inevitable exit from the steep green mountains that seem to sing their history to us.

 

the first show - day 5

 

it is 8:15pm on saturday may 21st, we arrive the the site of our first show: an old oratorio in the village of vianino. the sun is just setting over the verdant fields, the air is thick with humidity and pollen, the trees stand at ease along the winding roads, and the stones of the 13th century houses are glowing a soft hue of orange. we have just arrived here with lorenzo, our friend and host and concert organizer this evening. the oratorio is used for community events and lorenzo thought make use of this space, there was seating for fifty, but more chairs were being brought and there was standing room too. i thought to myself how perfect of a place for our first show and how exciting this was going to be. we had soundchecked in the early afternoon, and all we had to do was set up the recording device, a zoom recorder with stereo mics, and the camera, and also set up the cd's to be sold... except at that moment i realized there were no cd's in my case or in my hands, the cd's were still back at the house were staying at, half an hour drive, an hour round trip. and the concert starts in an hour and fifteen. and we have not had supper yet, and lorenzo's wife maria has just cooked us a feast.

 

from alps to the sea - days 3 and 4

 

woke up to the wild sounds of bird calls we had never heard before. it was really loud and strange music. and out our little
attic window there was this wall of forest, and looked out just in time to see the the beige/pink glow of the sunrise
on mont blanc... amazing.

 

Chamonix-Mont Blanc - tour day2

in paris - tour: day 1

 

Had a great overnight flight, was too excited too sleep, so watched the sun rise over the clouds above the ocean.